Tel Aviv- Jaffa, Neve Tzedek and Shuk

2 Aug

IMG 4600 500x375When you visit Tel Aviv, there are 3 things that are an absolute must for any itinerary. Jaffa, neve Tzedek and Shuk. Jaffa and Neve Tzedek are two beautiful areas next to each other, so when you go, plan to spend a day there. Make sure not to go on Shabbat as everything is closed,  so Thursday or Sunday are great, but any weekday is good too.

Neve Tzedek is one of the first neighborhoods in “new” Tel Aviv. In the 1980′s the city started restoring the old houses, and the area has really blossomed over the past several decades. There are still some side streets that look a bit run down, but Neve Tzedek has a very bohemian and quaint vibe. There are plenty of art galleries, artisian shops and great cafes here. Walk around Shabazi Street which has great shopping- lovely small boutiques with ceramics, art, clothing and all kinds of other trinkets. Stop by  the Clouche House – an art gallery with rotating contemporary art exhibitions, and don’t forget to check out the roof top, which has beautiful views of Neve Tzedek.

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In Neve Tzedek

Jaffa is  ”The old city” in the real sense of the word- with it’s cobblestone streets, tiny alleys and walkways where you can easily get lost and found.  You can pop into any of the numerous art galleries, and take a look at some very varied local art work.  We spent a couple of hours roaming the streets and alleys of Jaffa, and made our way down to the port- one of the most ancient ports in the world, where we walked around only for a bit, as we  were quite tired and hungry from the long day. The meal we had at Margaret Tayar’s was quite unforgettable. We sat on the terrace overlooking the ocean. The grilled fish was absolutely perfect, and I loved the stuffed grape leaves, and the laid back atmosphere and the beautiful views. Yoezer  is another noteworthy mention in Jaffa- famous for their extensive wine menu,  the food is great and the setting alone is worth a visit.

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Artisitic building number in Jaffa

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Jaffa sunset

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View from Jaffa promenade

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After expeirencing the culture, fine food and quaint beauty of Jaffa and Neve Tzedek, we were ready for a very different Tel Aviv Experience. Our next day was dedicated to the Shuk- Israely bustling market. In fact, we went to two Shuks in one day- it was quite the feat, but very much worth the effort.

Hatikva is one of the most authentic markets in Tel Aviv. Located in the south-east area of Tel Aviv, in Hatkiva, it is out of the way, but is definitely worth the trip, especially on Friday mornings when people are shopping for Shabbat. Right around the market there are a bunch of small restaurants serving homemade food, and they are really really good- several places with daily menus, offering only what’s fresh and in season today. The Hatkiva market is food only, and we went more for the experience than to shop, but bought  some delicious exotic fruit, and pickled persian garlic, which was supposed to go back to the US, but didn’t make it. I ate it all within 2 days.

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Another great market is Shuk Carmel, it’s in the heart of Tel Aviv, and has clothing and souvenirs in addittion to food and produce. Stop by the small Turkish Borekas booth, just in the entrance to the market, on your right.  It is supposed to be the best borekas in town. Borekas is a salty puff pastry, filled with cheese or potato. it’s the best when it’s  fresh out of the oven. This place serves their borekas with pickles and a spicy tomato paste -Delish!

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I loved the sounds, smells and feel of both markets, and thought that I got a better glimpse at Israeley culture. I enjoyed my newly aqcuired haggling skills, and was full-on haggling for a better price on cherries by the end of the day.We tasted some of the most delicious, simple, homemade food. And I have come to like the loud, but friendly manner of the people I talked to that day.

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