Eclectic Trips

Today is sunny, warm and breezy- perfect. It’s the end of August in Odessa, and I am visiting for a few weeks.  I was born here, and moved to New York  when I was 15. I returned two Summers ago, fell back in love with Odessa, and keep coming back.

My friends from London are in town, and I am showing them around. It’s Jon and Bryan’s first time in Odessa, and they’ve had an “interesting time” so far.
“Last night we went to a night club in “Arkadiya” and got stopped by a young policeman” Bryan shares their adventure stories.
“He asked us if we have our passports, and when we said no, he replied > “Oh, this is big problem!”
“What can we do?” we asked. “You can give me gift” was his reply”.
200 Hrivna later, my boys have decided that Ukrainian police is corrupt. I guess every country has it’s vices.
We walk on Deribasovskaya- a lively street lined with cafes and shops. Lots of young people congregate on Deribasovskaya- laughing, reading, hanging out in McDonald’s. The city center is lined with cobblestone streets, and many young girls wear heels… the heels get ruined quickly, and the cute noise of the exposed metal of the young ladies’ shoes knocking on the sidewalks- “klock klock klock” becomes Odessa’s soundtrack. “Kompot” is our lunch spot – good food and great people watching. They also serve Kompot- a fruit punch made from boiled fruit and berries. Ukrainian food is delicious- potatoes are a staple, “blinchiki” – exquisitely thin crepes, plenty of soups, meat, fish and hearty “goulash” style dishes.

My city is green, streets are lined with trees. There are no high rises in the center- the architecture is old world style, with French and Italian influences. Restoration is taking place everywhere, and the newly restored buildings sparkle, but the ones that haven’t been restored are my favorite, retaining their old world charm, complete with the peeling paint, and babushkas sitting in the old dvoriki. ” Such a beautiful city” Jon says. “Reminds me of Paris, but smaller”. I’ve heard that before, but to me Odessa seems more alive than Paris, greener…simpler… but just as beautiful. We stroll down Primorski Boulevard, past the statue of Duke De Richelieu- Odessa’s landmark. Below the Duke is the magnificent “Potyomkinskaya stairs” which is basically a grandiose set of stairs- excellent for some good hard exercise. You can walk down the stairs to Odessa Sea Port, and If you dare walk back up the stairs, it should fill your fitness needs for the day. Another option for the cardio challenged- escalator. We skip the whole thing, and instead walk over to the most charming spot in Odessa -Tyoschin Most. “The bridge of the mother in law” is near the Wedding Palace, and newlyweds get padlocks inscribed with their names. They lock the padlocks on the railings of the bridge, and throw the keys in the water below…this act should symbolically solidify their union. Tyoschin bridge has a special aura about it- it has heard so many love stories, and witnessed so many unions being forged. We sit on the bench and enjoy the beautiful Odessa August, then I put my friends in a cab making sure they don’t get overcharged. We are meeting again for dinner and dancing later, and I  look forward to showing Jon and Bryan more of my city- at night.

Leaving Wainae harbor

We didn’t have an underwater camera, so our underwater journey remained undocumented, but in a way I am glad- It keeps the image of the dolphins fresh and vivid in my mind. It’s an image I hope to preserve and remember for years to come, and when it fades I’ll just have to come back to Oahu and call up Tori.

Tori Cullins, the captain of our boat is a marine biologist, and has been studying behaviors of dolphins  and whales in Oahu since the 90′s. She works with  Wild Dolphin Foundation and Cascadia Research. Tori is beautiful and a bit rugged- sporting a perma tan, wearing a large hat and face hugging sunglasses. It must be a nice way to make a living-  taking people out into an open ocean and providing them with an incredible, unforgettable experience. But like any other jealousy inducing occupation, it can get old. “We’ve been taking people since 1996, and I love it” Tori says. I believe her- it feels as if she is as passionate and excited about her “day job” as she was in 96. Her company- Wild Side is definitely a labor of love, as becomes even more evident by the homemade sandwiches she feeds us later that day. Wild side gives a portion of proceeds from the tours to the Wild Dolphin Foundation for conservation efforts. And the boat is environmentally friendly, using low-sulfur diesel fuel, and having lots of other “green” upgrades.

Tori tells us the details of the day’s trip, including some instructions on how to be polite to the dolphins. “Swim with them, not at them, do not touch them, and try to be intuitive- observe and mimic their behavior”.

"There they are!"

We sail past the beautiful green mountains rising against the blue sky. The color of the ocean in Oahu is unlike anything i’ve ever seen before - it is royal blue- a rare shade. Barbara, a marine biologist and our marine guide for the day tells us that our first stop is a “turtle cleaning station”. Ha? Well, it’s a large reef where turtles come to get cleaned by little fish. Turtles grow algae on their shells, which can slow them down, and the kind fishies are happy to help, eating the unwanted algae of the turtles. We swim out to the reef, find the turtles and the fish that love to clean them. It is fascinating to see  nature’s perfect design first hand- and see these creatures take care of each other. There are schools of fish swimming by, blue and yellow and white. But not an overwhelming amount of busy fish like in some popular snorkeling spots. Just a few here, a few there, and a bunch here, all really different sizes and shapes, all pretty bright. Calm and serene…

Picture perfect day

Sailing by...

Back on the boat, Barbara tells us about raising turtles that have been separated from their mothers, and teaching them how to swim on their own. She is volunteering on turtle beach in North Shore, educating people about turtle behaviors. She has been working with turtles and educating people about them on Nieves for decades, and has recently moved to Oahu to do more of that. Pretty cool job I’d say. I get distracted from Barbara’s story because we see the dolphins swimming in pods all around the boat. We get in the water and swim towards them, catch a pod and swim with them for a while until they swim away. Then another pod, and one more after that. I see a mother with the baby attached to her- the baby is nursing. It is the sweetest thing I’ve ever seen. I follow that pod for a bit, there are two more babies in the pod, and as the mother comes up for air, so does the baby- very clumsily. There is the strong vibrational sound of dolphin’s sonar. I am smiling under water the whole time.

Dolphin pod near the boat

And one really near!

When it’s time to go back to the boat I am filled with quiet joy. It is an honor to swim with these amazing creatures, and I feel very lucky having experienced it. We sail in silence for a bit, everyone pondering their experience, or just wanting to savor it as long as possible. And then it’s lunch time- we are served sandwiches with hummus, blueberries and sprouts. A very creative and delicious combination. There are also chips with homemade mango salsa, all kinds of wholesome nut and fruit bars, and iced cappucino.  I am thinking that if Tori’s family was out on a boat trip they would get the same exact sandwiches and snacks. Looking at Tori and Barbara words “salt of the earth” come to mind, and I feel grattitude. For this amazing day, for having this rare experience, for the baby dolphins, and for having met these women.  And for knowing that there are people with passion and purpose that are out there every day observing and studying marine behaviors, and  looking out for our wild life.

The beautiful drive to Kailua

It’s  a short drive  from Waikiki to the simple coastal town of Kailua, and the amount of gorgeous scenery per mile is immense. I call this the high impact drive, because it is relatively short and really, incredibly, overwhelmingly beautiful. Coming from Waikiki  you would take highway H1 to H2. H2 took 37 years to  build, costing $100 million dollars (gasp) per mile! You will drive through Ko’olau mountains for about 15 minutes and marvel at their beauty. Ko’olau mountains form perfect, chiseled peaks covered with every shade of green imaginable,  and are just so stunning it’s hard to look away. For the grand hooray, after you pass the tunnel, the road opens up an absolutely incredible view on the left. Open ocean, small towns, lagoons and more green mountains. It is hard to take picture of this wonder as it is too grand scale, and well, you are in a moving vehicle and there is nowhere to pull over. Believe me, we tried.

As you get into Kailua, you pass the ” town center” comprised of several strip malls. There is a mix of the corporate Macy’s and Starbucks with local mom and pop businesses, about an equal amount of both, which is nice. Oahu has a big farmer’s market culture, and Kailua has a nice market every Thursday evening. The sweet corn was my favorite treat. This type of corn only grows on Oahu, it is juicy and unbelievably sweet. We also had a quesadilla from the burrito stand which was  average, and had waaay too much cheese,  a nice ginger iced tea, and the best organic mangoes. Walking around the market, shopping with the locals and checking out all the fresh farm produce is a very nice to spend an hour, and a cheap fun way to entertain your taste buds. If you need something more substantial than Farmer’s market goodies, read about our Kailua restaurant experience here.

Kailua has  a beautiful beach with fine white sand and very clear water. There is a nice beach front park with picnic tables, huge old banyan trees,  shady ficus trees and fearless pretty white birds walking around. The scent of the ocean is very strong  and refreshing here- makes you want to breathe with full lungs, and save some of the potent oxygen for later. You can rent a kayak right on the beach, get some  instruction, and kayak to the nearby tiny Mokulua islands. That is if you are feeling adventurous and need a serious upper body workout. Alternately, being a beach bum is perfectly acceptable here. Laying on the soft sand staring at the turquoise water, and taking an occasional dip was my sport for the day. This beach is rated one of the 10 best beaches in the country, so I wanted to get all my beaching in at Kailua beach.

If you are planning to spend the day here,  bring your umbrella. Hawaiian sun is deceivingly gentle, but is in fact very strong.

Oh, and the sunset here is really beautiful and serene…If you can stay till the sun sets, do- it will offer a perfect wind down to a lovely day.

Corn stand at Kailua Market

the organic goods at the market

Kailua beach after sunset

Scenic view from West Maui mountain

We landed in Maui’s tiny airport at 11am, and Masha was waiting outside in her old beat up green station wagon. Bright red Hawaii print nylon seat covers adorned the front seats. I guessed this car gets pretty wet, sandy and muddy at times, though it looked perfectly clean now.

“I love this car- I can fit my board inside without having to tie it to the top!”

Masha confirmed my suspicions, and made me think about all the perks of Island life. On we went with what I knew was going to be an awesome day. There is nothing better that coming to a place and having a dear old friend who happens to live there be your personal tour guide for the day. Masha and I have been friends about a decade, and see each other about every year, sometimes less, but we keep in close touch, and I always look forward to seeing her. This was truly a special treat- catching up, hanging out on Maui and having Mash show us all the hidden Maui treasures.

1. Our first stop was the West Maui mountains an old, residential area of Maui that offers scenic drives and lovely hikes. We drove around the winding road for a bit, ooohing and aaahing at all the beautiful scenery that revealed itself after each turn. Typical Hawaiian landscapes- so amazing and grand and in such abundance . You know those stops on the road that say” scenic view”?  Well, I think all of West Maui Mountains can be designated as one giant “scenic view”.  We pulled over at a side of the road with a small trail and went on a small hike to a waterfall. Strawberry guava was in season, so we walked and ate the juicy small red guava. Nice start to our journey.

Cafe Des Amis

2. As good as the guava was, we got hungry pretty quickly and drove to Paia for lunch. Paia is a  sweet little town that’s popular with the windsurfers, and the hippies, and as all good and “quaint”  places on Maui, slowly becoming popular with the tourists. Cafe Des Amis was our lunch spot, with a very bohemian vibe, melodic lounge music, wooden benches and tables scattered in no particular order. I had mozzarella and tomato crepe – simple and delish, my husband  had a vegetable curry  he found delectable, and Masha had a very good looking salad. We walked across the street to Mana, a very well stocked natural food store, got some Vosges chocolate and raspberries and proceeded to the next stop on our itinerary. My favorite stop-

3. The Bamboo Forrest, something out of a fairytale… It was an easy hike through the bamboo forest to a waterfall.  The bamboo is cool to the touch, smooth and very sturdy. Sometimes it grows really thick not letting any light through, and at times it’s patches of younger, thinner plants with sun rays coming through. This ever changing light is incredible, and makes things look positively unreal at times. When Masha mentioned “Bamboo forest” I did not imagine it to be so beautiful. We finally got to a lovely waterfall we swam under, and then sat on some smooth big rocks and dried off. It was Sunday, and though there were a few cars parked by the side of the road next to the forest, we only saw one couple by the waterfall, and some people upon leaving the forest. I imagine this place is completely deserted during the week, and likely harder to find with no cars indicating the stop, but so so worth it! You need to take  Hana highway to get there. Look for the visual que of the bamboo forest itself. It’s right before the mile marker 7. If you are driving from Kahalui or Paia you will come upon mile marker 7 once but that’s not the one you want- continue driving until you reach mile marker 16, and they will start over again and it’s the marker #7 after that  that you want- in other words it is approximately 23 miles from Kahalui.

Hiking to the waterfalls

The magic Bamboo forest

feels like a scene from "Lost"

4. Watching the turtles. This was a pure, simple pleasure. We stood over a giant cliff with some pretty spectacular views and watched the turtles slowly swim and peak their heads out of the water below. At first there was a lot of  “spot the turtle” game going on, as we  couldn’t distinguish between the giant rocks and the equally giant turtles. But we soon got the hang of it, and stood there looking for a while. A very tranquil moment complete with the strong scent of the ocean and the loveliest breeze intermittently blowing by. Find the turtles on Hana highway around mile marker 8 (the first #8 going from Paia) Look for the Hookipa Beach Park turn, it’s a couple of hundred meters past that. There is a razor wire all around, but there is also a wooden gate you can climb over, it’s easy.

We then went back to Masha’s house, hung out for a bit and got ready for dinner.

5. Dinner at Colleen’s at the Cannery was just right- all around. Colleen’s is a super local place, no tourists anywhere in sight. I had the freshest fish I’ve had in Hawaii- monchong with pitch perfect mashed potatoes, and huge crunchy asparagus. I barely stopped myself from licking my plate clean- that’s how good it was. My dinner companions had burgers that looked and smelled like really, really good burgers. The place is simple, something of an upscale diner decor. Our waitress was fast, friendly, attentive, and very pretty. No room for desert, as my entree was very large and perfectly filling. Colleen’s is in Haiku, at the Cannery marketplace, a local strip mall type place.

After all the hugs and goodbye’s, we watched as Masha’s green station wagon drove off, and I was filled with gratitude to have an amazing friend who made us feel totally like locals on touristy Hawaii Island in just one day.

Our destination was The valley of the Temples, and the traffic from Waikiki  to Kaneohe was brutal. It would clear up for a minute, and we’d start rolling slowly, but then it was bumper to bumper again for the next 10 miles. We got there at 6 PM, The Valley, and with it the temples were closed. “We’re closed ya all” said the very friendly girl at the gate with a huge smile, as if she was delivering great news. Really wished it said that the “Valley” closed at 5PM in our guide book.

I am not a fan of guidebooks- I prefer to do my research on line, read a few indie travel blogs, a few restaurant review sites, check out tripadvisor for good measure and call it a day. This book was laying around our hotel room, I picked it up, and got into it- It was a new way to navigate for me, all the info in one place, pretty pictures and maps (which I could not for the life of me figure out). Needless to say I got a bit addicted to the convenience, and got lazy on my research. Today           ” Oahu Revealed” by Andrew Doughty 3rd edition has let me down by not providing “hours” for the “Valley”, and we took a very long drive for pretty much nothing. I know it’s the journey and not the destination, but I did want to see the temples!

We were in Kaneohe, it was getting late, and we were starved. We needed something close, quick and good to make up for the disappointment of our journey. Seemed like “good” was pretty much out of the question. The restaurant selections in Kaneohe that suit our taste were pretty slim. But quick, decent and inexpensive was an option- Andrew Doughty recommended Chao Phya Thai, stating that the restaurant had good selection, good service with “good size” portions and very reasonable prices. And so to Chao Phya we went. To say the place did not impress me upon entrance is a huge understatement. Depressing is the word that comes to mind. There were two tables of two occupied in a restaurant with roughly 30 tables. The decor was outdated with faded foam green tableclotes, and faded pink napkins, the staff seemed sleepy. The hostess sat us, and threw the three menus together at the corner of the table. It’s a bit of a pet peeve of mine- why not hand the menues to each of the customers, or at least place them in front of each person? But i tried not to mind- after all we weren’t at an upscale restaurant, we wanted quick and decent, and here we were. My husband returned from the restroom saying “So, this place got a good review in your guide book? Can I see it please?”. Of course I asked why, and he replied that he walked past the kitchen twice and did not like what he saw at all. The place did not look clean to him. “Do we have any other options?” I looked at our friend, who seemed to be in agreement with his sentiments, and we apologised and walked out.

We drove to Kailua, the next town over, and thought we would just look for a restaurant that struck our fancy. Instead we stopped by Fromaggio’s, which got an excellent review from Andrew, and my husband who was really set on eating Thai food seemed to be endlessesly disappointed. “Is there no good Thai place in town?” What about this one?” Incidentally there was a Thai place next door “Saeng’s Thai”.  Andrew’s review of Saeng must be quoted here-

“If you are in Kailua, and looking for excellent Thai food, you are outta luck. The food is not exactly good, the service is not exactly good, the restaurant is not exactly good. Guess that about covers it” He goes on to say that as awful as the place is, it’s better than the only other Thai option in town.

I read the review outloud, and all 3 of us chuckled.  ” I don’t trust this guy after he recommended this Cho Phuya place” I want to check out Saeng”.  Never try to stop a hungry determined man looking for Thai food, and we meekly followed Ruslan to Saeng’s. It was Tuesday night, and the restaurant was pretty full. The decor was nice with a gorgeous carved wood Thai bar, several beautiful statues, traditional tapestry- a nice consistent Thai theme. At this point we knew we were eating here. The waitress was lovely, all smiles, and very attentive. We ordered a Thai coconut soup and summer rolls for appetizers, and I stuck with my motto                     ” in unknown Thai restaurant- order pad thai”. The Summer rolls were a bit of a disappointment, though they got eaten. The soup was one of the best i’ve had- or maybe I was just really, really hungry. My pad thai was also good, great flavor combination, well cooked noodles, not too sweet. We really enjoyed our dinner- it turned out that  : “the restaurant was pretty good, the service was pretty good, and the food was certainly pretty good”

Lesson learned- people have very unique perceptions of places and things, and that is the reason why I like to read MANY reviews before selecting a restaurant/hotel/spa. Also the more blogs and reviews you read the more savvy you get in deciphering which ones are of importance to you personally, and which ones are written by people whom you have very different tastes/perceptions/priorities with. For instance I remember reading great reviews for a hotel, except  one traveller who gave it 1 star based on the fact the ‘the elevator was slow”. I just can’t imagine myself paying attention to something as minute as that, and having it change my opinion of the hotel. So get a guide book if you must, but research, read, see, compare… In other words- Be a savvy traveller

Waikiki sunset

Waikiki is crowded. That was one of the first thoughts I had when we arrived a week ago. Though this impression hasn’t left me completely, it has subsided. I have gradually come to realize that Waikiki is not crowded in a loud obnoxious way, and there is still an element of peacefulness in the thickest of crowds. I think it comes from breathing the light Hawaiian air, and absorbing all the surrounding beauty. And Hawaii is beautiful, all the different times of day, from all different angles. Even in busy Waikiki there are always mountains in the background, the lovely beaches and parks, the blooming magnolias and the banyan trees. The amazing scent of magnolias alone is almost worth a Waikiki visit.

There is an overwhelming amount of shopping in Waikiki- from Dior and Fendi, to surf and bikini shops, to ABC stores on virtually every corner. You need to have incredibly strong will power to resist buying at least a few things you have absolutely no need for. ABC stores are pure genius- you walk in to buy a bottle of water, and see the cutest ” Hello Kitty” wallet for your niece- you WILL buy it. The place is set up so that you walk by the “Hello Kitty” stuff and the refrigerator magnets, and the really cool looking Hawaiian tanning oils, and for a second you forget why you are there in the first place. That is the same second you pick up one of those things you had no plans on purchasing and walk zombie like toward the cash register. People in Waikiki seemingly love to shop- they walk around with conspicuously large shopping bags, and the stores seem to be busy all times of day. There are at least 4 malls in addition to all the street shops in Waikiki, but if that isn’t enough there is the Ala Moana shopping center just near by- which is sure to put you in complete shopping coma. Yes, consumerism runs thick in Waikiki.

Cool Art Deco architecture on Waikiki shopping street

Waikiki beach is always full of action- surfing pros and novices getting surfing lessons, kayaks, afternoon beach luaus-  you name it. Unless you get here early in the morning or much later in the afternoon, finding a spot  on the sand can be a real challenge. If you want a bit less beach action, walking towards Diamond Head is a good idea, as the hotels get a little less dense here, and the beaches become somewhat less insane, and more local. Even with all the crowds, kids, surfers and margarita lovers on the busiest of Waikiki beach, the water is surprisingly clear, the sand is surprisingly clean, and very soft. Here you can also rent beach chairs for a bargain price of $10 for 2 hours.

Waikiki beach

Talking about bargain prices- they do not exist in Waikiki. Everything is outrageously expensive. On the day we arrived I overheard the following conversation in “Food Pantry”- the local supermarket:

-Honey, they charge four bucks for milk!

-Na-ah, let me see that!

Holy &^%*&%^(**(**!!!!! You are right! And the eggs are $8 a carton!!!!

A Southern couple in their mid twenties stood dumbfounded by the dairy refrigerator. It was moment of non- action, not decision making- they knew they were going to buy the $4 milk and the $8 eggs, they were just delaying the inevitable. If they didn’t purchase those items, they would likely be the victims of  ”the all you can eat” 18 dollar breakfast buffet offered in many of the hotels. $60 dollars a couple for mediocre breakfast anyone? I didn’t think so:)

I have woved to myself not to do the “Holy ^&%*^%&%$^%$#” song and dance at the site of $9 tub of yougurt, or $10.99 mango jam. Since I am still going to buy the groceries,  there is really no point in lamenting about it. I must admit it is challenging though.

There are a few decent moderately priced  food options around. Ruffage foods on Kuhio avenue is a simple, decent lunch choice, close to the beach. They serve some vegetarian options, good sandwiches and smoothies, and daily soup selections. I like it for it’s simplicity- a tiny place located inside a health food shop with a few outside tables. At 6:30PM Ruffage turns into Morio’s- just as tiny sushi bar with about 16 seats total including the bar and the outside tables. It’s always packed, so either make a reservation or go early and prepare to wait. Very fresh fish, expertly crafted rolls,  and really inexpensive. This place is a tiny gem- and you get to bring your own liquor, which is great, since there is a liquor store next door.

And if you want something a bit more ” Waikiki”- The Shore Bird  restaurant at the Outrigger Reef hotel on the beach is a fun choice. Right on the beach, beautiful sunset views, super friendly staff.  They serve ” cook it yourself” dinner buffet. Basically you get a piece of meat or fish that you grill yourself at a giant BBQ, and help yourself to a pretty decent salad bar buffet. I am not a huge fan of cooking my own food, that is mostly why I go out, but this wasn’t too bad at all. Actually kind of fun, and we’d go again- definitely for the gorgeous sunset.

We are still discovering Waikiki, and I am finding myself liking it more and more every day. I have found a few places of refuge from the crowds, and am enjoying trying new beaches near the Diamond Head mountain. Will keep you posted on more Waikiki goodness, which I am sure will reveal itself shortly.

Surfing dogs near Diamond Head

golden hour

When you visit Tel Aviv, there are 3 things that are an absolute must for any itinerary. Jaffa, neve Tzedek and Shuk. Jaffa and Neve Tzedek are two beautiful areas next to each other, so when you go, plan to spend a day there. Make sure not to go on Shabbat as everything is closed,  so Thursday or Sunday are great, but any weekday is good too.

Neve Tzedek is one of the first neighborhoods in “new” Tel Aviv. In the 1980′s the city started restoring the old houses, and the area has really blossomed over the past several decades. There are still some side streets that look a bit run down, but Neve Tzedek has a very bohemian and quaint vibe. There are plenty of art galleries, artisian shops and great cafes here. Walk around Shabazi Street which has great shopping- lovely small boutiques with ceramics, art, clothing and all kinds of other trinkets. Stop by  the Clouche House – an art gallery with rotating contemporary art exhibitions, and don’t forget to check out the roof top, which has beautiful views of Neve Tzedek.

In Neve Tzedek

Jaffa is  ”The old city” in the real sense of the word- with it’s cobblestone streets, tiny alleys and walkways where you can easily get lost and found.  You can pop into any of the numerous art galleries, and take a look at some very varied local art work.  We spent a couple of hours roaming the streets and alleys of Jaffa, and made our way down to the port- one of the most ancient ports in the world, where we walked around only for a bit, as we  were quite tired and hungry from the long day. The meal we had at Margaret Tayar’s was quite unforgettable. We sat on the terrace overlooking the ocean. The grilled fish was absolutely perfect, and I loved the stuffed grape leaves, and the laid back atmosphere and the beautiful views. Yoezer  is another noteworthy mention in Jaffa- famous for their extensive wine menu,  the food is great and the setting alone is worth a visit.

Artisitic building number in Jaffa

Jaffa sunset

View from Jaffa promenade

After expeirencing the culture, fine food and quaint beauty of Jaffa and Neve Tzedek, we were ready for a very different Tel Aviv Experience. Our next day was dedicated to the Shuk- Israely bustling market. In fact, we went to two Shuks in one day- it was quite the feat, but very much worth the effort.

Hatikva is one of the most authentic markets in Tel Aviv. Located in the south-east area of Tel Aviv, in Hatkiva, it is out of the way, but is definitely worth the trip, especially on Friday mornings when people are shopping for Shabbat. Right around the market there are a bunch of small restaurants serving homemade food, and they are really really good- several places with daily menus, offering only what’s fresh and in season today. The Hatkiva market is food only, and we went more for the experience than to shop, but bought  some delicious exotic fruit, and pickled persian garlic, which was supposed to go back to the US, but didn’t make it. I ate it all within 2 days.

Another great market is Shuk Carmel, it’s in the heart of Tel Aviv, and has clothing and souvenirs in addittion to food and produce. Stop by the small Turkish Borekas booth, just in the entrance to the market, on your right.  It is supposed to be the best borekas in town. Borekas is a salty puff pastry, filled with cheese or potato. it’s the best when it’s  fresh out of the oven. This place serves their borekas with pickles and a spicy tomato paste -Delish!

I loved the sounds, smells and feel of both markets, and thought that I got a better glimpse at Israeley culture. I enjoyed my newly aqcuired haggling skills, and was full-on haggling for a better price on cherries by the end of the day.We tasted some of the most delicious, simple, homemade food. And I have come to like the loud, but friendly manner of the people I talked to that day.

Lala Land

We are sitting at a place called Lala Land on the Tel Aviv beach, listening to mellow atmospheric music played by an attractive DJ, and watching the beautiful sunset. I am on my third glass of wine, and really savoring this time- I leave tomorrow, and as it happens on really incredible trips, I am completely not ready to return home. The events of the past week in Tel Aviv run through my head, and I realize that this was indeed one of my favorite trips- ever. I fell in love with Tel Aviv, and am already looking forward to returning here sometime soon.

The first nice surprise upon my arrival in Tel Aviv was the Hotel Vital. Though the pictures looked nice on the website, the hotel was very affordable compared to most others, so I wasn’t expecting much. But it was very well designed, modern, and the staff was very nice. The room was spacious and clean, simple but nice. The breakfast buffet which was included in the price was very impressive. Plenty of selections- salads, fresh fruit, Israely specialties, eggs- pretty much any item you can think of for breakfast, in abundance. The hotel was pretty centrally located, so I decided to take my favorite” discovery walks” Which is just me, walking around without a map or any of my travel research, and taking in  new city and it’s sights, smells, language and culture. I really liked what I saw- Tel Aviv has a great “Cafe culture”- people sitting around in outside cafes, relaxed, talking, drinking coffee. All the cafes have their unique character and design- some are modern, some have a more classic vibe, some are a bit kitschy. There are fresh squeezed juice stands everywhere, and I loved getting a fresh juice every day a very healthy habit. The food in Tel Aviv is good pretty much everywhere- I haven’t had a bad meal the entire time I was here. It’s one of  those great cities, where you can walk in to any Falafel stand, cafe, fast food joint or a fancy looking restaurant and expect good, quality meal. Some places that are particularly noteworthy are

Nanuchka- my favorite restaurant in Tel Aviv- it’s Georgian (the ex USSR republic, not the state;) food, and it’s really delicious- but the atmosphere and the decor is REALLY special- it feels like you are in Georgia in the 40′s. After dinner hours the place turns into a sceney bar, with pretty loud music, and lots of drunk people having fun. We had a very memorable meal here, and stayed on to listen to music for a couple of hours- a really fun night.

Address: 28 Lilenbloom St.
Tel: (03) 516-2254

At Nanuchka

Goocha- delicious fresh seafood, creatively done. Goocha is located on a great street Dizengoff, one of the nicest walking streets in TA. Eating at Goocha at the end of your walking tour is a welcome treat. They have tables outside, nice people watching, fast, friendly service and excellent affordable food.

Address: 171 Dizengoff St., 14 Ibn Gavirol St
Tel: (03) 522-2886, (03) 691-1603

“Benedict” – a great brunch place. They have a nice selection of local and Western brunch items- everything we ordered was simply delicious! It is right on the corner of Rotschild blvd  and Allenby street. It was pretty busy when we went, and we waited for about 20 minutes for the table- but it was very well worth it! Rotschild blvd is a beautiful street, lined with famous Bauhaus buildings. Architecture in Tel Aviv is very noteworthy, there lots of beautiful buildings everywhere, so don’t forget to look up.

Tel Aviv boardwalk

LaLaLand is a really nice restaurant lounge located on the beach. With tables right on the sand, the space is very cute inside, the food is pretty good, and they have very nice mellow music- lovely place to watch the sunset and unwind  (located at Gordon st on the boardwalk). A walk on the famous Tel Aviv Boardwalk is a pleasure, and not to be missed.

The sun has almost set over Tel Aviv beach, and the DJ was timing his set to the music- it was pretty magical. My friend and I exchanged a sad, knowing glance- it was time to go back to the hotel and pack for our return trip, we had an early morning flight and needed to brace ourselves for ElAl security procedures, which in case you haven’t heard, are very strict and thorough. I promised myself to have the mental image of this beautiful  evening inspire me to return to Tel Aviv very soon, and explore this wonderful city a lot more.

Brunch at Jacques

The name of one of the loveliest neighborhoods in Manhattan, Nolita sounds like a pretty girl’s name, but it simply means “North of Little Italy”. This lovely area has some of the best cafes and boutiques in New York City, all concentrated around a several block radius. You can spend a lazy Saturday afternoon here, walking around the small cobblestone streets, window shopping, and popping into some boutiques. The restaurants and cafes are abundant, and most of them are great. One of my favorites is the classic and always packed Cafe Gitane on Mott and prince. Small, with a few tables outside, Gitane has simple, inexpensive French- Moroccan fare, and I love the small details here- the Gitane chocolate they serve with your cafe au lait is not only a lovely touch, but it is indeed a very tasty piece of chocolate. Order the baked feta appetizer, and the couscous, get a lillet, a kir or a cafe’…and sit around for a bit enjoying the gorgeous foot traffic passing by.

Prince street tiny market

Favorite brunch spot is Jaques French Bistro on Prince. Only $12.95 for a pre fix brunch, which includes a mimosa is a true steal around Nolita. The food is solid, good every time. I usually order the simple choice- eggs benedict with smoked salmon, and it’s lick your plate delicious. And the fries- let’s just say these fries are not for sharing, they are that good.  Cafe Havana is a very popular Nolita establishment, loud, rowdy, always super packed, and always a a wait for the table here. Their cheesy corn is legendary, and if you are in Nolita, I recommend you checking out Habana to find out exactly why. You will always see folk sitting or congregating outside, waiting for tables or eating their cheesy corn, and it’s always a fun scene.

The Market NYC sign

There is some truly great shopping in Nolita is great if you can afford it. Sigerson Morrison on prince has the hippest, and very well made shoes. There is the legendary Calypso on Mott with their beautiful bohemian light as air wares and accessories. And the newly opened Botkier store next to Cafe Gitane is small and cute – a true “boutique” and has very pretty handbags. But for those that can’t quite afford the price tags at these upscale wonders, Nolita, luckily offers some pretty great alternatives.

Laser cut jewelry at Market NYC

The Market NYC is a small indoor market that consists of young, up and coming designers selling their mostly one of a kind pieces. It’s mostly about jewelry, but there is also clothing, leather goods, and all kinds of random things.  In my opinion the jewelry is the main draw here. There are so many beautiful, unique things in all price ranges. Everything from semi precious stones, to knit jewelry, to laser cut pieces, to things made out of vintage findings and old beads. At least half of my jewelry collection is comprised  of Market NYC finds, I love every single piece, and they have lasted me a while. It’s also really nice to buy a piece  directly from the designer and hear the story behind it. “It took me 6 hours to make this necklace” said Olga with pride of the silk and gold necklace that I purchased from her. “If it ever gets tangled up, and you can’t untangle it- come here and I will do it for you”. You don’t get that kind of service in Saks Fifth Avenue:)

Inside The Market NYC

And if The Market NYC is not enough to satisfy your shopping cravings, Prince street between Mott and Mulberry is lined with eclectic stands selling everything from hats, and tees, to children’s clothing, to more jewelry.

The red light indicating that I was running dangerously low on gas has lit up a while a go, and I was starting to get more than mildly worried. The highway was closed. We were not moving- at all, not even a touch and go bumper to bumper misery, for which I would have been eternally grateful right about now. There was a serious accident a few miles up, and we wouldn’t be moving until they cleared it up. The question I was now asking myself is whether my car will be moving at all when it was time to move. I tried to distract myself by thinking about dinner. We had plans to go for Mexican food with friends tonight- something I was looking forward to all day. My mind started drifting a bit, as it tends to- “Guacamole and cheese quesadillas, margaritas, yum! I won’t run out of gas, I am sure we’ll be moving any minute now. That quesadilla in Playa Del Carmen was definitely one of the top culinary delights i’ve ever experienced.”

It’s funny how every time I think of Mexican food, I inevitably think of our friend’s beautiful beach wedding in Playa Del Carmen. We were only there for 3 days, and it was one of the most whirlwind, and most memorable trips. There were 25 of us, and we all stayed in the same sweet boutique hotel, which brought on memories of Summer camp. Hanging out in other people’s rooms and drinking Modelo, trying (not very successfully) to organize day trips, and waiting for everyone for way too long to get together for dinner- all good campy fun. The beaches in Playa were beautiful- clear turquoise water, soft sand and pinacoladas. Towards the end of the first day my husband and I realized that eating on “the strip” was for suckers, and taking along 2 of our more adventurous friends wondered off looking for “signs”. As the houses got progressively smaller, the peeling paint more noticeable, and cruise-ship passengers with oversized “to go” drinks disappeared from view, we stumbled upon this tiny treasure. I don’t remember the name of the place, nor am I sure it had a name. There were no English menus, and the waiter, very friendly, but looking a bit surprised came up to us prepared for difficult communication. My Espanol is mui mui mal. But luckily I speak near perfect “restaurant” and “cab” Spanish, and though I know I sound pretty awful, I am not shy. We had one of the most delicious, fresh, perfect in every way meals, and paid something around $45 for the 4 of us, with drinks, and dessert. The word got out, and at our next meal here we were joined by 4 more friends, and so on until it was dinner for 25 the following night. It was the same waiter every time, and when he saw the crowd of us coming down the street, the surprised look on his face turned into an all out wonder- of course they didn’t have 25 menus, but we made do.

The traffic was finally moving. The hope of not running out of gas in the middle of a huge highway on this 90 degree day was starting to seem more realistic. I cursed myself quietly for everything I have done wrong this day. Snoozed an extra 20 minutes, and didn’t stop for coffee on the way to work, which usually makes my day go not as smoothly as it should, nor did I stop by the three gas stations I passed by. “Later”. “Later”, however I  was running late for dinner and margaritas, and figured I had just enough gas to get me home. So now I was in this predicament-all because of the cursed “snooze” button.

The evening of the wedding we walked to the beach through a winding path lined with picturesque  houses painted pastel colors. There was the simple, beautiful and deeply memorable ceremony with shamans blowing in conch shells and everyone dressed in white. The  sky changed a thousand different colors from soft peach to crimson red with the setting sun as our friends said their vows. The dinner that followed was a true feast, complete with a wild performance in Mayan theme. We came back to our hotels as the sun was almost starting to rise, drunk as much on the beauty and uniqueness of the evening, as on mezcal.

The accident was all cleaned up, and we were driving full speed now. I still didn’t have the time to go home and change, and drove instead straight to El Rancho Grande to meet our friends. As I drove up to the restaurant, I made a mental note to talk to my husband about planning a trip to Playa Del Carmen some time very soon- to visit it’s azure water beaches, laid back life and most delicious and simple food.